42nd Annual Louisiana Indian Heritage Association Fall POW-WOW
November 29&30,
2008 at the Lamar Dixon Arena
for more Information, please contact Rose at (504) 616-4394,
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Tribal chief on Isle de Jean Charles says it's time to leave
by Darren Simon, The Times-Picayune

Just a week after Hurricane Gustav destroyed Isle de Jean Charles in Terrebonne Parish, residents Virgil Dardar, left, and Chris Brunet, back center, stand outside their raised home with Albert Naquin, who is the Chief of the Biloxi-Chitimacha-Choctaw Indians on the island.
ISLE DE JEAN CHARLES -- Chief Albert Naquin is tired. Tired of seeing his community flooded. Tired of begging for help.
More than a week after Hurricane Gustav pushed water over the ring levee protecting the island in south Terrebonne Parish, where descendants of several American Indian communities still live, Naquin, chief of the Biloxi-Chitimacha-Choctaw Indians, declared: "This is my last one. I'm not going to keep doing this."
Naquin says it is time for the island's remaining residents to move farther inland, surrendering their way of life to the twin threats of storm surge and coastal erosion.
Even as he spoke, another reminder of the island's vulnerability was closing in. Hurricane Ike brought a 9-foot storm surge a little more than a week later, overtopping the island's 6- to 7-foot levee and swamping homes again. The exasperated chief reiterated what he said after Gustav: This is the last hurricane season he will seek relief for those who refuse to move off the island.
People on the island do not give up easily. For generations, the Biloxi-Chitimacha-Choctaw Indians have lived on the low-lying ridge, which they jokingly call "the bathtub." Their community has flooded in so many hurricanes that some residents regard hurricane season as an annual test, an ordeal they endure so they can remain connected to the land.
But storm surges are not the only enemy. The island is slowly eroding into the Gulf of Mexico. Most residents do not have the money to continually rebuild, and the community already knows it will never get stronger levee protection.
So, Naquin and tribal leaders once again will try to rally the community of 150 to 175 people to move to higher ground. This time, he hopes tribal leaders will be successful.
"How much beating can you take before you give up?" asked Naquin, 61. "I'm getting too old to be fighting and trying to help people that don't want to be helped."
Long history on island
Until the 1950s, American Indians on the island were so isolated that the community was reachable only by boat. The elders still speak in their native Cajun French.

Just a week after Hurricane Gustav destroyed Isle de Jean Charles in coastal Terrebonne Parish many residents have not been able to return.
The struggle to stay is really a desire to cling to familiarity, to roots and island traditions and to land where generations have buried their dead in an area now marked by a slender 10-foot-tall white cross. Naquin understands the comforts and sentimentality. He regales visitors with how the island used to boast the best fishers and farmers around, how a single building was the grocery store, dance hall and church.
"I was born on the water," said oyster fisherman Edison Dardar, whose home flooded in Hurricane Andrew and has been rebuilt. "This is my home."
In the early 1800s, French, Cajun, Spanish and Indian people lived along southern Louisiana's bayous, including bands of the Choctaw, Biloxi and Houma Indians. Isle de Jean Charles was officially considered "uninhabitable swamp land" until the state sold plots of property, according to history Naquin provided. Jean Baptiste Narcisse and three other family members bought the first plots, and the island's original families grew from Frenchmen who married American Indian women.
The island survived, even as hurricanes washed away other coastal Louisiana towns. In 1893, a hurricane destroyed the Cheniere Caminada settlement near Grand Isle, killing at least half of the 1,600 residents. Cheniere Caminada survivors moved north to Leeville, but a 1915 hurricane devastated the town, killing dozens.
Island residents have seen their world change, pointing out how flooding has worsened during the years since Hurricane Betsy in 1965. A few residents have elevated their homes, but saltwater encroaches the marsh on all sides of the island, taking the land where people farmed and gardened just 40 years ago.
Like other bayou communities, Isle de Jean Charles is a victim of coastal erosion, subsidence and sea-level rise. The oil and gas industry's construction of canals for vessels and pipelines enabled saltwater from the Gulf to invade and destroy freshwater wetlands. Levee building also caused southern Louisiana communities to be cut off from the Mississippi River and its sediments, which would have replenished the land and prevented it from sinking.
Island shrinking
Isle de Jean Charles once stretched about four miles wide, but is now a quarter-mile wide. The population, which Naquin said peaked at 350 to 400 people, has shrunk too. Flooding started driving people away after Hurricane Carmen in 1974, when families sought better jobs and solid ground. Some residents left after they got married. Just as the population and marsh have withered, by the mid-1970s so did the few grocery stores. The island's one-room schoolhouse closed more than 50 years ago.
The island is now simply a ridge with houses and a few fishing camps on both sides of a single road. The view is picturesque, but sad if one knows about the steady march of erosion. Most residents work as fishermen or on supply boats and do not earn much of a living. Naquin said someone once boasted to him that he made $10,000 one year, believing that was good money.
The island's last hope for hurricane protection died a few years ago when a 72-mile Morganza to the Gulf levee plan that would shield Houma -- and also protect towns such as Dulac and Montegut -- left the island on the unprotected side. The Army Corps of Engineers decided it would be too expensive to route the levee around the island. So residents live by a routine: Evacuate. Brace for floodwaters, and salvage what is left.
The chief has his own routine after storms. To examine the damage, Naquin journeys about two to three miles down Island Road, a sliver of a two-lane roadway over water that connects the island to southern Pointe-aux-Chenes in lower Terrebonne and Lafourche parishes.
Saltwater lapped over the edge of the road a few days after Gustav. The road, so narrow that two trucks cannot pass each other without one falling off the edge into the saltwater, is steadily sinking.
A few days after Gustav, the air on the island reeked of dead fish. Dried mud carpeted the front lawns of homes. One house sat atop a levee, washed off its foundation about 40 feet away.
Relying on help
Usually, a relief island team is ready to help. Naquin's wife joins other wives and relatives, including tribal leaders and a handful of Pointe-aux-Chenes Indians. Naquin solicits help from nonprofit groups -- food, blankets, diapers, toothpaste, whatever flood victims need -- and the team hauls the donations to the island.
But soon, he fears they will be left to fend for themselves.
"I love to help people, but somebody ought to understand that help is coming to an end -- not just from me, from charity, those giving the stuff," Naquin said.
Naquin comes from a line of Naquins who have served as chief. His brother last held the title and passed it to Naquin in 1997. Since then, Naquin has coordinated local relief efforts for a number of major hurricanes, including Juan, Andrew, Katrina, Rita, Gustav and Ike.
He has not lived on the island since the 1970s. Like other residents, Naquin and his wife left after Hurricane Carmen to move to Pointe-aux-Chenes. All along, he has hoped others would follow, or at least take advantage of opportunities to relocate. Slowly, they have, he said. Naquin knows of six families that left after Rita in 2005.
A few years before Rita, the Army Corps of Engineers proposed moving the entire community because the corps could not protect the residents under the Morganza levee plan. The idea never gained much traction, said Carl Anderson, senior project manager for the Morganza to the Gulf project.
Naquin said about 80 percent of the people on the island were convinced. The corps wanted 100 percent participation. After a heated public hearing in 2002, the plan died, Naquin said. Island residents on the cusp of deciding to leave stayed instead, Naquin said. He dropped the issue.
But in the aftermath of Gustav and Ike, Naquin said that if he and tribal leaders find enough people interested in relocating, they will present a plan to Gov. Bobby Jindal's administration. Naquin said he hopes the community would be able to move together and retain ownership of the land.
Culture in peril
Even in nearby southern Terrebonne and Lafourche parishes, Ike flooded some Pointe-aux-Chenes Indians' homes. But Pointe-aux-Chenes is on higher ground, so the damage was less severe than on the island.
Tribal leaders and tribal attorneys say the recent storms again sound the alarm that Louisiana's coastal communities need stronger flood protection and more emphasis on coastal and wetlands restoration to reduce surge. They also acknowledge that homes need to be built to withstand storm surge and hurricane-force winds if these bayou enclaves are to survive.
"These communities are cultural and historical assets," said Joel Waltzer, a tribal attorney for the Pointe-aux-Chenes Indians.
Waltzer said losing the communities "would mean the end of an entire lifestyle and, in this case, the end of an entire people."
The idea of leaving Isle de Jean Charles is hard for some to embrace.
"Where are we going to go?" said island native Virgil Dardar, an oyster fisherman. "Here, we are at home."
Dardar's house is elevated 8 feet, but Gustav's floodwaters rose to the floorboards, buckling sections of a house that also flooded in Betsy and Carmen. Chris Brunet, a lifelong resident who lives next door to Dardar, said the flooding might force people to leave, but he is not yet ready to go.
"That day for me still remains to be seen," he said, laughing, as he sat in Dardar's kitchen. "I'm still struggling with that right now."
Darran Simon can be reached at dsimon@timespicayune.com or 504.826.3386.
After the Flood: In Louisiana, Diehards Cling to a Vanishing Isle
Residents, Battered by Storms, Weigh Tradition and the Lure of a Buyout
By Betsy McKay, The Wall Street Journal
ISLE DE JEAN CHARLES, La. -- A few days after Hurricane Gustav, Pierre Naquin returned to this fragile vein of marshy land to find part of his roof torn off, his family's furniture, appliances and clothes soaked by beating rains, and black mud oozing under the house. Days later, Hurricane Ike hit the island on its way to Texas.
But as Mr. Naquin, a 67-year-old former tugboat captain, prepared for another slow cleanup, one thing was certain: He won't move. No matter how many times this happens. "This is where I was born. I'm going to die here," he said.
Gustav Floods Louisiana Wetlands
Jacob Walker, showing his self-made tattoo of Louisiana, carries Braden Naquin in Isle de Jean Charles after Gustav hit the island.
Emergency officials face a number of questions in helping communities like Isle de Jean Charles. Among them: What should be done in wetlands that are disintegrating, or in locations where man-made protections are unlikely ever to spare people from storm damage, yet where many residents refuse to consider moving elsewhere?
With every hurricane, prospects of viable life on this exposed sliver of land -- and others like it nearby -- fade. Built over thousands of years by sediment spread by the Mississippi River during yearly floods, Louisiana's wetlands have been sinking into the Gulf of Mexico ever since the great river was imprisoned in high levees starting in the late 1920s and oil and gas companies began cutting channels through the wetlands.
Without the Mississippi's nourishing sediment and fresh water that once poured onto the edges of the coast, saltwater from the Gulf is eating into the sunken soil, killing off miles of tough marsh grasses and trees that once dissipated the massive surges of water pushed ahead of hurricanes. The once-thick ridge that built up along a bayou and created the island is "all eat up," Mr. Naquin said. "We don't get protected here no more."
Evacuations and flooding are a way of life in Isle de Jean Charles, a poor community of wooden houses and dilapidated shacks in Terrebonne Parish accessed by a narrow causeway that waves lap at on both sides. Once a rural paradise where cattle and pigs roamed, vegetables grew, and inhabitants lived off the land, today it is a finger of land just three feet above sea level where many residents live in poverty or on some form of government assistance.
The 9 feet of water, more or less, delivered by Ike was the third major flood here in three years. Increasingly, it seems likely that any major ocean storm moving west in the Gulf of Mexico will flood or wreck Isle de Jean Charles.
Brother Against Brother
Mr. Naquin's determination to stay pits him against his own brother. His ancestors -- Indians intermarried with French settlers -- were among the first people living on this ridge, in the 1800s. His father was a fisherman who trolled the waters around the island for shrimp, oysters and crabs. He and many of the island's 175 or so inhabitants are members of Indian tribes.
Many here fear that giving up the island would mean forfeiting their identity -- and the chance of winning federal recognition and financial aid as an Indian tribe. The groups are recognized as tribes by the state of Louisiana. But the federal Bureau of Indian Affairs has so far declined to award federal recognition.
Six years ago, a cost-benefit analysis by the Army Corps of Engineers found that including the tiny island inside a new levee system would cost about $100 million. Resettling the whole community on higher ground would cost about $8 million.
Relocated residents were to have been allowed to maintain ownership of their land on the island, along with modest monthly royalties they currently get from nearby oil drilling, according to state officials.
Island residents rejected the relocation out of hand. The Rev. Roch Naquin, Pierre's 75-year-old first cousin, left the island as a child because Indians were excluded from local schools in the upper grades. He returned to retire in 1997. He maintains local officials were planning to turn the land over to oil companies or high-paying developers.
"This is a good fishing area," Father Roch says. "Developers are just waiting to come and build waterfront lots and make a fortune."
Local officials deny any such plan. Isle de Jean Charles, about 80 miles southwest of New Orleans, shows no signs of attracting real-estate investors.
Albert Naquin, Pierre's brother and chief of the Isle de Jean Charles Band of Biloxi-Chitimacha Indians, says the real corps plan was to "to let us drown." In 2002, he wrote a letter to the corps likening the island's exclusion from the levee system to the 1838 "Trail of Tears," the forced march of the Cherokee Indians more than 1,000 miles from the Southeastern U.S. to present-day Oklahoma. He pleaded for the federal government to build its levees around the island. Officials ultimately refused on the grounds that it would cost too much money.
Par for the Course?
"History is being relived all over again for the Indian community of the Island," wrote Chief Naquin, who had moved off the island in 1975 to escape having to drive on the flooded causeway on his way to and from work at a natural-gas company. "Indians were always being relocated to reservations by the white man."
Hurricanes Gustav and Ike have been enough to make Chief Naquin reconsider his opposition to moving. With the battle for hurricane protection levees lost, he says he's "wore out." "People's got mud in their homes," he says. "Why make them suffer if they want to go?"
He wants to persuade state and federal officials to make a relocation offer of new homes, a church and community center. Those who are unemployed should be given a year's pay and help finding a job, he says.
Brenda Dardar Robichaux, principal chief of the tribe United Houma Nation, says, "We're not ready to concede that we can't rebuild our community. It's our heritage." But she adds that for those "who are tired of fighting" and want to move, "we're going to support them in that effort as well."
Carl Anderson, senior project manager for the Army Corps of Engineers' $968 million hurricane protection project from which the isle was excluded, says a relocation offer could be renewed.
But Chief Naquin knows that any offer of relocation will face fierce resistance. His brother Pierre, Father Roch and others remained determined to stay, even as the island was flooded again last week. People face dangers -- flooding, tornados, earthquakes -- no matter where they live, Father Roch says. Gustav bent back about a 3-foot piece of his tin roof, dousing treasured photos of his nieces and nephews. "I'm going to stay and keep fighting," he said.
Write to Betsy McKay at betsy.mckay@wsj.com
Storms could mark beginning of end for island
POINTE-AUX-CHENES — Decade after decade, the storms have come to Isle de Jean Charles, leaving splintered wood, twisted metal, wrecked homes, water and mud in their wake.The generations of people who have lived and died on the narrow, one-and-a-half-mile-long marshy ridge in southeast Terrebonne have just as faithfully slogged through the muck, climbed up rickety staircases, patched roofs, replaced windows and rebuilt their homes.But these days, the islanders returning to reassemble their houses and lives are older. And there are fewer of them than ever before.The destruction caused by hurricanes Gustav and Ike, which hit Terrebonne less than two weeks apart and left the island looking like a war zone, had at least one local leader calling for a renewed effort to wrangle a relocation deal for the islanders, most of whom are American Indians who split their allegiance between the United Houma Nation and the Isle de Jean Charles band of the Biloxi-Chitimacha Confederation of Muskogees.
“As a leader, I have to do this … to get them out of there and put them out of harm’s way,” said Albert Naquin, who claims the title of chief of the island band of Indians. He says the islanders have had their own chief going back about 150 years.Naquin, who grew up on the island but now lives up La. 665 in Pointe-aux-Chenes, gathered about a half-dozen state, federal and local officials under a gazebo at his house on Dennis Street Wednesday to declare his intention to pursue relocation.Isle de Jean Charles, he said, cannot continue to count on charity and government assistance to rebuild over and again. Rather, the community could be moved intact, while still maintaining ownership of their island property, to a safer locale.“I think it’s worth it. I think it’s a good move,” Naquin said.
As south Louisiana’s wetlands have vanished and the barrier islands off the coast have eroded away, communities like Isle de Jean Charles increasingly stick their chins out into the Gulf, more exposed than ever for a knockout punch from a hurricane.“There’s no turning it around,” said Randy Verdun, chief of the Bayou Lafourche Band of Biloxi-Chitimachas, who attended the meeting.Though he said Isle de Jean Charles is a community “worth saving,” with a unique history and culture that cannot be replaced, Parish President Michel Claudet told Naquin the actual island is in an untenable position.
“Isle de Jean Charles is lost, I think,” Claudet said, adding that residents should support the relocation move. “We need to convince them.”The island is worth less than the expected cost of repairing the infrastructure damaged by the storms, Claudet said, including Island Road, the two-and-half-mile stretch of two-lane blacktop that connects Jean Charles to lower Pointe-aux-Chenes. Pieces of the north lane and the banks gave way during the storms, leaving a jagged edge running along the length of the road.“The reality is, this community is outside the flood protection, and it’s going to continue to happen,” Claudet said of the storm damage.Even if Morganza-to-the-Gulf, the sprawling, perpetually stalled 72-mile system of locks, levees and floodgates designed to protect Terrebonne from hurricanes, ever gets built, Isle de Jean Charles falls outside the protected area in the plans.“It’s hard to leave your heritage … (But) we can save the rest of Terrebonne Parish,” Claudet said. “We can’t save Isle de Jean Charles.”
However, a relocation deal, first attempted by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in 2002, is a sensitive subject for local tribal leaders, who are not on the best terms.In 2002, Naquin said about 80 percent of the island families supported the relocation, but the corps wanted 100 percent participation, a figure he reckons is impossible.He also blamed “outsiders,” Indians who didn’t live on the island, for sowing misinformation and rallying people against the proposal.Naquin and Verdun said the United Houma Nation does not speak for the island and they resent a news report on Jean Charles broadcast on WWL-TV in New Orleans that features United Houma Nation Chief Brenda Dardar-Robichaux. The report followed Hurricane Gustav.“They say this is their community, and it’s not,” Verdun said. “It’s a misrepresentation of the facts.”Naquin says only one of about 50 families on the island belong to the United Houma Nation.Dardar-Robichaux says about half of the island’s families are on the United Houma Nation’s tribal rolls, though some may have dual membership.
That Naquin speaks alone for the island is “the perception he would like out there, but that’s not the fact,” she added.In any event, the focus should not be on the sparring leaders, who have been wrangling for years, Dardar-Robichaux said.“The real story should be the people of the island,” she said. “We have a tribal community that’s been there for a generation that needs to be protected and preserved … If there was ever a time that we should be standing together to preserve the island, the time is now.”Though no proposal is presently on the table, mineral rights, land ownership and the fate of the island after the natives leave were all concerns during the first negotiation and will likely surface again, both camps said.The United Houma Nation would support relocation, if it reflects the will of the island.
“We want to support what their wishes are,” Robichaux said. “We need to give them the facts and let them make the decision on where their future’s going to be … It needs to be their wishes.”Some members of Dardar-Robichaux’s tribal council are not convinced Jean Charles is beyond protection.“Now we’re losing land because somebody says we’re not worth protecting,” said Thomas Dardar, a council member who lives in Houma but has relatives and ancestors from the island. “They’re telling us, literally that we’re not worth saving … If they don’t protect us, Houma’s going to be the next barrier island.”Though state officials, from the Office of Indian Affairs, the Governor’s Office of Disability Affairs, and the Department of Health and Hospitals, were in Terrebonne to attend to emergency post-storm needs, one official pledged to explore the possibility of arranging a new relocation negotiation session. The officials also met with Dardar-Robichaux in Raceland.“I’m going to put together a report of this trip,” said Mark Ford, executive director of the Indians’ Affairs Office. Ford added the state could possibly recruit a “coalition of agencies” to help arrange the relocation.
Still, a few minutes on the island show how divisions about staying or leaving splinter families.Alongside his wife, Maryline Naquin, Pierre Naquin, Albert’s 67-year-old brother, was fixing up his house, which lost a roof and a porch in Gustav.He wouldn’t relocate if an offer was on the table, even though he doesn’t plan to stay on the island forever.“Only until I die,” Pierre Naquin said with grin. “What’s the difference? You move somewhere else, a tornado gets you.”A retired tugboat captain, Pierre Naquin doesn’t trust guarantees of continued property ownership from the government.“All they want to do is take our land,” he said. “They’ll promise you that, but they ain’t going to give you that.”His wife said the couple spent the storms at their son’s house on Lincoln Avenue in Oakshire, where a 24-year-old man was shot twice Monday night.Both are glad to back to the peace and quiet of their island at the end of the earth, even if next week, next month, or next year a hurricane might force them to repeat the ordeal all over again.“Well yeah,” Maryline Naquin said. “But you got tornadoes other places, you got earthquakes … We can get out. We don’t know what the heck we’ve got to come back to, but we can get out.”
Senior Staff Writer Robert Zullo can be reached at 850-1150 or robert.zullo@houmatoday.com.
Pictures of destruction in Pointe-au-Chien and Isle de Jean Charles from Hurricanes Gustav and Ike






pictures of the Louisiana Indian Association Spring Youth Leadership Camp in April, 2008




![[SB122123557720028409]](http://s.wsj.net/public/resources/images/OB-CH955_bayou__D_20080912123037.jpg)
![[Isle de Jean Charles residents survey the damage in a flooded house three days after the storm.]](http://s.wsj.net/public/resources/images/P1-AM958_BayouJ_D_20080916184930.jpg)